Also known as Spurge · 312 gardener saves
Pachysandra: the varieties gardeners actually grow
Pachysandra, the genus most gardeners know as spurge. We track 8 varieties; these are the ones gardeners actually save and plant, ranked by real saves rather than catalog marketing. Each links to full care, bloom, and live price data.
The 8 most-saved Pachysandra varieties
Of 8 in the catalog — ordered by how many gardeners actually grow them.
#1 most savedJapanese Spurge Silveredge
Pachysandra terminalis 'Silveredge'
#2 most savedJapanese Spurge
Pachysandra procumbens 'Pixie'
#3 most savedJapanese Spurge Green Sheen
Pachysandra terminalis 'Green Sheen'

Japanese Spurge
Pachysandra terminalis 'Mix'

Japanese Spurge Variegata
Pachysandra terminalis 'Variegata'

Japanese Spurge
Pachysandra terminalis 'Shiny'

Japanese Spurge
Pachysandra terminalis

Green Carpet Japanese Spurge
Pachysandra terminalis 'Green Carpet'
How to grow Pachysandra
What the Pachysandra varieties in our catalog actually agree on — drawn from the care records of the 8 most-grown of them, not from a generic template.
The Pachysandra year
- PruneFebruary and March100% of varieties
Cut back runners or shear edges to maintain boundaries
- PlantMarch, April, September and October75% of varieties
Plant plugs or divisions in spring or early fall
- FertilizeMarch63% of varieties
Apply a light, balanced fertilizer in early spring if growth is sparse
- Spring CleanupFebruary and March63% of varieties
Rake or shear off old, damaged foliage before new growth begins
- Check for PestsApril–June38% of varieties
Monitor for scale insects or leaf blight
Do
- Mulch to conserve moisture and suppress weeds
- Prune lightly after flowering
- Water regularly to keep soil moist but not waterlogged 🌱
- Apply mulch to conserve moisture and control weeds
- Prune to remove dead or damaged foliage
Avoid
- Avoid overwatering to prevent root rot ❌
- Avoid overwatering which can cause root rot ❌
- Refrain from heavy fertilizing
- Don’t expose to full sun which can scorch leaves
What goes wrong with Pachysandra
| Problem | What you'll see | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Aphids | Sticky residue and distorted leaves | Spray with insecticidal soap |
| Root rot | Wilting and browning of foliage | Improve drainage and reduce watering |
| Scale insects | Raised, waxy bumps on stems | Apply horticultural oil during dormant season |
| Root rot | Wilting and blackened roots | Improve drainage and reduce watering |
| Leaf spot | Dark spots on foliage | Remove affected leaves and improve air circulation |
| Powdery mildew | White powder on leaves | Improve air circulation and apply neem oil or fungicide |
Making more Pachysandra
Division
- Dig up mature plants in early spring or fall.
- Gently separate clumps into smaller sections.
- Replant immediately at same depth.
- Water thoroughly to help establish new plants.
- Allow 6 weeks for roots to develop.
Cuttings
- Take semi-hardwood cuttings in late spring.
- Dip cut end in rooting hormone.
- Plant in moist, well-draining soil.
- Keep soil consistently moist.
- Wait approximately 8 weeks for roots to form.
Pachysandra questions
How many types of Pachysandra are there?
The Sow catalog tracks 8 distinct Pachysandra varieties. The most popular — ranked by 312 real gardener saves — are shown first above.
What zones does Pachysandra grow in?
Across its varieties, Pachysandra covers USDA Zones 4–9. Individual varieties differ — each plant page lists its exact range, and Sow filters the catalog to your zone automatically.
When does Pachysandra bloom?
Most Pachysandra varieties bloom in early spring. Staggering early, mid, and late varieties extends the genus's season in one bed.
Which Pachysandra should I choose?
Start from the most-saved varieties above — popularity across thousands of gardens is a strong signal of reliability — then filter by your zone and sun. In the Sow app you can preview any of them in a photo of your actual yard before you buy.
